Not one thing

Napa cabbage, quartered and packed leaf by leaf. The one people mean.

Radish in cubes. Holds its crunch far longer than cabbage, and sweetens as it goes.

Small ponytail radishes fermented whole, greens and all.

Radish in a clear cold brine, no chilli at all. The liquid is the point.

White kimchi made without chilli powder. The older form, and the gentlest way in.

Young radish greens in a thin brine. Poured over cold noodles when it is too hot to cook.

Cucumber split into a cross and stuffed with chive. Made to be eaten within days.

Whole scallions, laid flat and folded. Sharp at first, mellow and glossy after a month.

Mustard leaf — peppery and sharp. A Jeolla speciality that only improves with age.

A cabbage-leaf parcel packed with oyster, pear, chestnut and jujube. Banquet kimchi.